Italy With Our Germans III: A Blessing from the Pope

A little Christmas flashback:  Italy 2007

A Blessing From the Pope

Detail of the Trevi Fountain.

Click to enlarge.

Life ashore is so luxurious! I love that the shower is a few feet from a bed that doesn’t require a climb to get into. Going in and out is as simple as opening and closing a door and there is no gank plank at the threshold. Our mornings at the hotel were luxurious too. It became our habit to make our plans for the day over a leisurely buffet breakfast. On the 23rd we decided to go to the Pantheon and the German Pilgrim center to see if Ilka and Jurgen could get tickets for the Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. We had tried the center the day before in the morning and afternoon but nobody answered the buzzer/speaker that was mounted on the massive double green doors that faced the street. We decided to go to the Pilgrim center first. It was near the Vatican so we took the metro rather than walking all the way again. Gene was doing really well with his gimpy leg, but his feet were killing him. The last time he wore shoes was at our daughter’s wedding eight months ago. Before that, I think it was five years. We got to the Green Doors and Jurgen pressed the intercom; still no answer. There was another button and I reached up and pressed it. The massive doors swung open onto a courtyard. A line of doors ran along one side and the Pilgrim Center was one of those, it was closed. A small hotel was at the back of the courtyard and it was so charming that Jurgen and Ilka went in to inquire about room rates and availability (we were thinking about where we would stay after getting back from Florence). Communication was no problem because the manager was German. The guy looked like a movie star and was so aristocratic I wondered what he was doing there. He told them nothing was available but suggested another place in Vatican City. He called the other hotel and arranged for us to go and see it; and while he was at it made it possible for us to have cappuccinos on their terrace at noon. Ilka and Jurgen weren’t able to get tickets for Midnight Mass, but ‘The Count’ had arranged front row seats to see the Pope give his Sunday Blessing. It was very close to noon when we arrived at the second hotel. It had been an Abbey at one time and had been beautifully done up. Unfortunately, the only rooms available were about $1,000 a night! Bit much for us. Still, the clerk allowed us to go up to the terrace and said he’d send someone to get our coffee orders. We couldn’t believe it when we went out onto the terrace--the Pope’s balcony in the basilica was a stone’s throw away. Our Germans were turning out to be quite the tour guides. It turned out that the Pope wasn’t addressing from the balcony in St. Peter’s, he was addressing the crowd from his private offices. A carpet hung from the window to mark where he’d be. It was across the square from us and much farther than we originally thought, but still we were relaxing with cappuccinos and good views as opposed to standing with hundreds of others in the square.

Ilka and Jurgen waiting on the terrace for the Pope's appearance.
We couldn't see the crowd in the square below us, but could hear them cheer each time the Pope sent a prayer and blessing in a specific language.

Good thing a birder was in the group. Binoculars--don't leave home without them.Ilka got spectacular views of an exceptional Cardinal.

 Pope Benedictus XVI
The Pope has a marvelous voice and blessed people in I don’t know how many languages. I’m not religious but the experience was really very moving. Afterwards, we left our privileged seating and headed for the Pantheon. Ironically, the Pantheon was built as a temple for the ancient Gods. It was commissioned by Agrippa in 27 B.C. Today it holds the tombs of the likes of Raffaello and the kings of Italy.

The Pantheon

Inside the Pantheon

Fountain outside the Pantheon
Next stop, the Trevi Fountain.

We had dinner in a small family restaurant and were entertained by a loud disagreement that was being carried on in the kitchen. When we got back to the hotel we opened the adjoining doors to our rooms and shared a bottle of very nice wine.

Sue